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1. Carefully trace the wing and elevator shapes on
the
inside of two meat trays as shown. Be sure the front edges
of the wings go about 2/3 of the way up the curved sides of
the tray. Check the bottom of the tray and avoid any logo
found there. Cut out the wings and elevator with the hobby
knife or scissors. Use the emery board to smooth the cut
edges and sand off the pen lines.
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2. When finished you should have the parts as shown.
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3. Use the emery board to smooth the edges. Make sure
that the two halves of the upper and lower wings are flat
where they will be joined, as shown at the lower right.
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4. Using the template as a guide, take a black marker and
mark the locations of the rib lines on the tops and bottoms
of each wing and elevator section. Make two sets of marks,
one on each edge. Connect the marks to make the rib lines.
Use a permanent ultra fine black marker and a straight edge
made from a manila folder (since it can be bent to conform
to the rounded shape of the foam).
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5. Place glue on the flat edge of the upper and lower
wing halves and join each wing as shown.
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6. Use the wing template and a sharp toothpick to mark
the holes for the spars on the top surface of the lower
wing. Note that the front edges of the wings curve down. Dip
toothpicks into glue and set them upright in the lower wing.
Try not to push them all the way through the wing. Be sure
they are straight and let them dry.
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7. Now turn the lower wing upside down and insert the
spars into the underside of the upper wing, doing the back
row (away from the curved edge) first. Be sure each is
vertical and add a little glue to hold each in place. Now
tip the wing forward and inset the front row of spars,
working from one end to the other. Again, try not to push
them all the way through the wing. It takes some effort to
get each in the right place and vertical . Add a dab of glue
at the top of each spar to help secure them to the upper
wing .
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8. Cut eight toothpick sections, each 2.5 cm. in length,
and sharpen the cut ends. Mark the locations for these spars
in the upper surface of the lower elevator using the
template just as you did previously with the wings.
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9. Set the eight short spars into the top surface of the
lower elevator and add a bit of glue to each at the base as
shown.
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10. Turn this over and insert the spars into the
underside of the upper elevator, doing the back row first
and then the front, trying not to go all the way through the
foam. Anchor with glue.
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11. Print the PDF file "1903
skid template". Cut a 14 cm. piece of the balsa wood "A"
and lay it on the template. Cut the right end at a 45 degree
angle. Cut a toothpick "B" to a length of 4.5 cm., with the
cut end also being at a 45 degree angle. Glue the toothpick
to the balsa to form a 90 degree angle as shown. Repeat this
step to make a second skid.
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12. Turn the elevator assembly over and poke a hole
through the lower elevator midway between the front and rear
spars of the pairs next to the center pair of spars. Push
the top of the skid assembly "A" through the hole just made,
add a bit of glue, and then stick the skid into the upper
elevator. Repeat with the second skid as shown.
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13. Cut the pointed ends off three toothpicks so that
they are 4.5 cm. in length and place them as cross-braces
across the skids as shown, one at the right angle, one at 7
cm. from the right angle, and one at 9 cm..
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14. Cut 2 toothpicks to a 3 cm. length. Glue them to the
skid as shown on the template at "E" and "F", pointed ends
up. Now measure and cut another tothpick as the rear brace
"G" and glue it in place. Repeat Step 14 for the second
skid.
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15. Now cut 2 balsa braces "C" to go from rear skid
support up to elevator support. Glue them in place as
shown.
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16. Turn the wing assembly over and press the skid
assembly into the center of the lower wing as shown. Be sure
the elevator projects out from the curved edge of the wing.
Try to keep the toothpicks from going through the foam.
Add some glue to each support.
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17. Cut two 10 cm. pieces of balsa "D" (see template) and
sharpen one end. Glue one end under the leading edge of the
upper wing between the center and next-to-center spar and
then glue the other end to the bottom skid. Repeat on the
other side of the skid.
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18. Six 2 cm. rudder braces are needed. Cut them from
three toothpicks as shown and sharpen the cut ends.
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19. Dip the braces in glue, insert them into the rudder
as shown here, and then turn the assembly over and insert it
into the other rudder. Add more glue for support.
To attach the rudder to the flyer make two sets of V-shaped
braces by gluing together two toothpicks as shown.
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20. Glue the V-shaped braces to the rudders as shown.
Once the glue is set, turn this over and glue on the other
brace.
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21. Stick the upper brace ends into the rear edge of the
upper wing as shown and add a spot of glue. (If the wing is
thin, glue the brace under the wing.) Now glue the ends of
the lower brace to the rear of the skid so that the rudder
is vertical.
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22. To make the propeller supports, use the template and
mark and cut 5 toothpicks for each. Try to keep the assembly
flat as it is glued.
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23. When dry, glue each propeller support to the lower
wing 5.5 cm. from the center, in line with the back struts.
Turn the Flyer over and glue to the top wing so that the
support is vertical. Extra hot melt glue may be added to
fill in any gap.
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24. Simulate the small engine by gluing two 2 cum. x 3
cm. pieces of foam together and then adding a 1 cm. x 3
cm. piece on top. Trace and cut a circle with a penny or
dime, cut out, and then glue on the end of the engine. Glue
the engine onto the lower wing just to the right of
center.
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25. To simulate a turning propeller trace and cut two 7.2
cm. circles out of clear plastic, such as a piece of a blank
overhead transparency. Use a black marker to draw pieces of
smaller circles. Enlarge the small hole in the center of
each circle with a toothpick.
From a thin craft stick or Popsicle stick cut a piece the
diameter of the plastic circle, round the cut edge, and poke
a hole in the center. Make two of these. Mount the plastic
circle and then the propeller on the end of the propeller
support and add glue. Repeat on the other side.
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26. (Optional) You can make figures of Wilbur and Orville
Wright from small, plastic army men. (These figures are
about 2 inched tall). Enlarge the image at the right to see
labels. Use a hobby knife to carefully trim off guns and
army equipment. The helmet can be trimmed into a hat. To
obtain the desired pose, arms and legs can be removed and
some from other soldiers glued in their place. The picture
to the right shows how to make a pilot to lay on the
wing.
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27. The original soldiers on the left were transformed
into the figures of Wilbur and Orville Wright.
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